Beiträge von Thor_du

    You've either broken the oil membrane in the crankshafts's chamber or there's something stuck in it.

    It's a classic on these, typical symptoms. I bet it's broken.
    You can't see oil in gearbox because everything's in the crank's chamber, it's also what's making the huuuge engine braking.
    The pirate has a video on it.

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    Have you already drained the oil from the engine?
    If yes how much did you drain from the front oil screen? Like an espresso cup or more like a liter?

    EDIT: lowrnge I didn't read the last part, yeah the membrane is gone. 100% sure.



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    A guy I know has had the same issue with his 1190 adv.

    It's probably the only road going KTM with a 14 mm shaft, other bikes use 18 mm shaft (not talking about offroad bikes for kids, nor 125/390 DUKE or other Indian/Chinese made KTM, I'm talking about bigger bikes).
    From the partsfinder and the setting lists I've seen it looks like they've gone back to 18 mm shafts on later models, I don't know what went through their mind at that time.

    His shock failed at the same exact point, first leak but he rode for a week or two with the shock leaking and then it broke on a speed bump from what I remember.
    I couldn't find a replacement rod at that time, not even mentionning seals for that 14mm rod.

    Contrary to popular belief the shocks are serviceable.

    Glad you are still alive, you could have killed yourself there, do you know what diameter they use for the replacement rod? Does it look bigger?

    Sorry for the English hijack of the thread.

    EDIT: Looks like they keep all the lower part so very little chance that the rod has been upgraded.

    The shocks don't have a bladder and are not shorter.

    Wrong on both.

    2008 SMC and Enduro shocks have a bladder instead of an internal floating piston, it's probably the only KTM with a bladder from the factory as far as I know.
    Later SMC, Enduro and Enduro R bikes don't have the same shocks.

    2008 to 2011 SMC have 265 mm front and back for suspension travel.
    2012 to 2017 SMC R have 250 mm at the back for total travel.

    As per the setting lists, the shock are shorter on the 2012 to 2017 models.

    2008 to 2011 ---> 95 mm shock stroke / 400 mm shock length (eye to eye) 265 mm at the wheel
    2012 to 2017 ---> 90 mm shock stroke / 395 mm shock length (eye to eye) / 250 mm at the wheel

    2008 690 SMC

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    2016 690 SMC R

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    2008 690 SMC
    Bladder in shock

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    Good Morning.


    This is also about chassis differences. So, about the shock absorber on my '08 SMC. I find it quite bouncy and found my friend's 2012 more comfortable. My question is, since I want to get the bike to stop bouncing. Would it be a solution to simply use a shock absorber from a later model? Service or not, I'm not sure if I'd be happy with the shock absorber. I'm still very spoiled by my aftermarket Bitubo shock absorber on my Suzuki. What do you think?

    Do you mean bouncy / mushy like on a cloud, always going up and down or bouncy like kicking back in your butt?
    If it's mushy then close the rebound adjuster (bottom adjuster), like 4 or 5 clicks is a good beginning.
    If it kicks back then you have other issues, tire pressure can also affect comfort.

    This is a temporary fix, get it serviced, it's a shock with a bladder, not a floating piston, it needs to be serviced more often, not every 17 years.

    Don't put a shorter shock from a 2012 to 2017 SMC R, the bike will push wide at the end of corners and you won't have a very good feeling with the front tire, the overall balance of your bike and the fork length are not made for that shock at all.
    You also have very different seats so this contributes to the comfort btw.

    Programming and coding... It's about a 2024 SMC R 690... The motorcycle is under warranty and restricted to 30 kW. Now I have a second DME that's also only 30 kW, and I need to get full power out of it. I completely dumped the original DME with a flex flasher. I actually want to get the second DME to run at full power, and then I need some software and hardware for proper diagnostics so I can see service functions and live data.

    You are probably way above what others have done and will do here.
    This is the only other people (that I know of) that have done something similar to what you are trying to achieve.
    ---> https://www.advrider.com/f/thr…erpro-no-tuneecu.1408818/ Maybe contact them.


    PS: Not the same bike, but same ECU.
    ---> https://advrider.com/f/threads…uke-1290-can-bus.1200087/

    Natürlich kann man auch Änderungen an einem bestehenden Teil machen, ohne die Nummer zu ändern, aber das ist nicht sehr wahrscheinlich, oder?

    KTM macht das.


    Ungefähr 2013/2014 haben sie die Kipphebel für die 690 (deren Teilenummer sich ein paar Jahre zuvor geändert hatte) geändert, ohne die Teilenummer erneut zu ändern.


    Dann gab es bei dieser Serie Probleme mit dem losen Stift, sie haben das Teil selbst erneut geändert, ohne die Teilenummer zu ändern.


    Ein weiteres Beispiel: Zwischen 2017 und 2018 haben sie die inneren Kupplungsscheiben der 690er modifiziert.

    Sie haben an jedem Turm eine Verstärkung hinzugefügt, wo man die Federn anschraubt. Die Teilenummer hat sich nicht geändert.


    Ich traue den Teilenummern von KTM nicht, das Teil könnte sich geändert haben, ohne dass sich die Teilenummer geändert hat, und das Gegenteil ist wahrscheinlich auch der Fall.


    Entschuldigen Sie mein gebrochenes Deutsch.

    For some brands like KTM, you can't buy Akrapovic parts from Akrapovic directly, it's a contract between them and they (akra) can't do anything about it.

    All the Akrapovic spare parts can be ordered from your KTM dealer if they are still made.

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    The manual can be uploaded from this page: https://www.ktm.com/en-us/service/manuals.html

    Just write the original KTM part number for the part you are interested in, in this case 76505099000 and paste it in the "Power Wear and Power Parts manuals", scroll down a bit ;)
    Works for many other accessories and special parts.