Thanks a lot Siciliano you rock!
I owe you a beer.
If you've got it in a better quality or bigger, that would be great! :D
Beiträge von Thor_du
-
-
if I am not wrong, the Sepring PP exhaust has never got an EU approval for the engine 753 (the one with double ignition and real 690ccm) at least I know only 653ccm engines that have this exhaust for legal
also the internet picture from Siciliano is for the 765 engine...
The double ignition engine is the 760, not the 753.
The 753 is the engine on the DUKE R 2010 / 2011 + 690 SMC and ENDURO R 2012 / 2013.
And it's a single spark engine.
It appears like it has been homologated with that engine at some point (the 753 aka 690cc single spark) judging by the informations I've been able to find so far. -
die Links helfen leider alle in der schweiz nicht da braucht es ein Extra Beiblatt.
Thor_du: in most cases an KTM Swiss dealer might print it for you if you have a chassis number
Thanks Orange blossom and Fanki!
From what I have gathered with pros in the motorcycle industry in Switzerland and experts at the MFK office is that European homologations don't work only because 3/4 of the time they lack some informations on the paper.
For exemple the DEKRA paper (Orange Blossom's last link) lacks those informations,
but the Homologation from the Netherlands works (Orange blossom's 2nd link) ! Because it has all the informations needed.
It might work with cops, but not at the MFK.
Only issue is that the Netherlands's approval is for the 654cc engine (code name 765) and I need the approval for the R later models with the 690cc engine (code name 753).
I'll try to ask the dealer near Freiburg, the dealers in Geneva and Lausanne are of no help...Yeah that could work for my other bikes could you scan it and maybe send me an upload link? That would be great! :D
Is there a topic that gathers all the exhaust approvals?
I have some that I could share if people need them. -
Sorry for my broken German,
I'm looking for a Swiss homologation for that exhaust ---> 76505099100, the PowerParts / Sebring exhaust for the 690 SMC R + the 690 ENDURO R 2012 and 2013.
If someone has it please let me know .
Thanks!
28331-921477504.jpg
PS: If someone has it for the previous model (the SMC) I could also be interested. -
My pleasure.
As you've probably noticed it is quiet long to read a map (from the ECU I mean), there's a trick to overcome that but I'm not sure it works on the windows version but you can try.
Open up a map for the same model as the bike you have in the programm then launch a reading sequence from the ECU in the programm.
It should transform the 12/15 minutes ish process in a less than 5 minutes thing if my memories are correct.
Don't forget to have a battery charger connected + the fuse from the lights (the only 15 A fuse) out when you work on the ECUs.
A too low tension can cause horrible things, like erasing everything. Be careful.
Enjoy! -
Yes you can, you have to go on the last window on the right where you can test stuff like the ignition coil for exemple or the injector.
You can't do it from the upper rollings windows (from the upper tool bar) but you can do it on the last window called "TESTS".
The bike and the ECU have to be connected otherwise you can't click on it. Give it some time when you go through the tabs or after the flashing process as it takes a bit of time to refresh the screen.
Coucou.png -
Alles anzeigen
Hello, what else could be the problem?
I have the same problem 😢
I installed a new fuel pump and a new injector with the small filter, no improvement.
It's not the oil membrane in the engine, this has already been checked.
For me it's like this: the motorcycle runs for 30 seconds and then just stops.
An ini run is not possible
Have you ajusted the TPS sensors?
-
You have to flash the maps otherwise the ECU won't take the changes. Unchecking the boxes without flashing the FI maps doesn't do a thing.
1 - Uncheck the boxes (exemple SAS or lambda sensor)
2 - Flash the modified FI map (or both the EPT and the EFI in that order)
3 - Erase adaptive values (last window on the right in TuneECU on windows)
4 - Shut the ignition OFF
5 - Turn back ON the ignition and do not press any other button, do not turn the throttle, do not pull the clutch do not touch anything beside the start button. Start the engine.
Once ON wait for 15 minutes to shut it down with the key (not the emergency button).
Do not touch anything regarding gears, clutch or throttle during the 15 minutes run. -
I imagine that the 2 mm trick could be used on other bikes / engine with a similar tensionning system.
PS: all the documents above are from the pumpkin house -
Follow-up from my post in 1st page on this topic (from 2020).
Here's what I've found recently.
I hope this will help people out there.
Quote:" Issues:
Customers complain about loud noise from the chain tensioner on 701 engines.
This happens mainly in hot / warm condition when restarting the engine after a stop.
cause:
This symptom is caused by the range of tolerances of the cylinder head, chain tensioner and the timing drive parts. Because of that the intensity of the noise could be different from bike to bike.
Resolution:
Please pay attention to the actual repair manual for the new generation cylinder head. It is necessary to bring more pressure on the chain with a 2mm pre-adjustment.
Check as well, if the chain tensioner is completely expanded, as described. See the repair manual for the newer version below (it is linked to every bike which is equipped with the newer version).
Additional to this, with model year 2019 an improved chain tensioner has been implemented. Mounting the newer version on a 2018 model could cure this issue as well."
1.png
2.png -
Thanks SAZOU , and thanks for using these tables and improving your bike!
From my own experience with the older SMC R the weight targets were wrong. And in dynamic they were even more wrong if you were a bit fast.
Barely works in static with compression closed at 3/4 at the back and opposite in the front, an average fast rider would bottom it, even a light one (70 kg in undies, 80kg equipped).
Don't stress too much about that, focus on the facts, not what the book says.
Have you measured your sags with the old 75 N/mm spring?
Same question with the new stronger spring, + with how much preload?
And what is your weight (in riding gear)? -
I'll update the excel tables later.
-
Adding the setting lists for the 2019, 2020 and 2021 690 SMC R now.
I've found them, finally.
-
If we are honest, and everyone who has a little idea about the 690s, knows that the new models are completely inferior to the "old" in terms of quality.
It really is ??♂️
I'm a simple man, I see someone bashing new KTMs I press like.
-
I was just mentionning it for clarity in case somebody reads this in the future that's all.
-
The exception is the 654cc Duke Bj.10 + 11, which also had the sensors of the 690cc mopeds on it
If I can help, I've had tons of problems with these so ... I've come to know them a bit unfortunately ...
Only the 690 SMC 2011 has the same throttle body as the 2012 and 2013 690 SMC R + ENDURO R (the blue plugs oriented forward).
+ 690 DUKE R 2010 and 2011
+ 690 DUKE 2011
+ 690 ENDURO R 2011 (there's no "standard" ENDURO in 2011, only the R).
The 2010 models have the same throttle units as the previous models.
Thanks 690erTimmy for reporting back, I've never heard about that crack until now. -
Don't hesitate to test things, with fork height, clickers etc if you know were you've started and don't like a setting then just go back to the previous setting. :)
Do not overtighten the lower triple clamp + axle bolts.
This is one of the most critical part + make sure you get the fork's alignment right.
I encourage you to watch these 2 videos:
1) https://youtu.be/_B4zb2dfijw
2) https://youtu.be/DYHV78tWs1c
Nota:
On our bikes the "captive" fork leg is the left side (with the 27mm nut), not the right side like on this RSV4 but it's the same principle, just the other way around. ;)
Refer to this video for installing wheel / fork legs and brake caliper because just like on our bikes it has a radial foot and brake caliper.
I hope I've helped you in some way.
-
Sorry there was an error in my text, 1st part was correct, 2nd part (bold text) was wrong I must have been more tired than I thought. 3rd part was correct though... Voilà.
Let's fix this once and for all (my fault)
Offset 34mm (factory setup): a bit less stable everywhere / a bit more flickableOffset 32mm (alternative) : a bit more stable everywhere / a bit less flickable
Geometry and suspension changes are always a trade-off.
Conclusion:
If I were you I would stick to 34 mm, get used to your new suspension + tires and start to play with your fork's height in the triple clamps.
Especially because you've said: "in turns it seems to be like i have to force it into the turn or better say put effort in it"
To counteract that you can lower the front of the bike by sliding your fork legs up in the triple clamps.
Go in steps of 2 or 3 mm. ;)
At each step the force you have to put in the handlebars to put it down + keep it down will decrease.
If the bike starts to go down very sudenly or "falls on its own", then go the other way, either a full step or half a step.
If you change brands or models of tires you'll have to do that once again, re find that sweet spot.
Same thing if you increase preload in the back.
It's been a long time since the last time I've had an SMC's steering head in my hands but yes I believe if it's at the back then it's 34mm, if you haven't messed with previously / are the first owner or if you are 100% sure about the service history then yes it's the factory set-up with the marking at the back.
For your O-ring problem, did you get this kit? ---> 00050000930
This kit goes on many many bikes so it's possible that some of these parts are only for EXCs or other bikes for exemple.
Side note, the official spareparts finder doesn't show THAT O-ring you've mentionned (on your printscreen).
It only shows on SMC R 2012 + partsfinder.
Are you sure there's a recess under the upper triple clamps to host this O-ring?
Both bikes share the same repair kit btw ---> 00050000930 (again)
SMC (2008 to 2011)
pasted-from-clipboard.png
SMC R 2012 +++
pasted-from-clipboard.png -
"From memory i can say that i was always satisfied with my bike but in turns it seems to be like i have to force it into the turn or better say put effort in it"
Did the guys at the suspension shop end up putting a stronger spring in the back or softer springs in the front by any chance?
Or was it just hydraulics change?
How much do you weigh? -
It is really is a shame + I'm almost sure it's not even mentionned in the owner's manual. :(
For the rest I'm sorry looks like my long speech + my experience got you confused! It's the exact opposite.
"If i change the offset to 32mm it becomes more agile in tight turns and less stable at high speeds, right?
I also get better feedback in comparison to the 34mm option?"
If you change to 32 mm offset you'll have more stability everywhere.
You'll not necessarily notice the lack of flickability / turnability (if that's a word), this is my opinion backed by my experience with this + what the guy on SupermotoJunkie said:
"The bike still will instantly drop into any turn..."
And, again, that's what I've noticed when going from my 2011 SMC with R/PP triple clamps (set on 35 mm offset) to another SMC with OEM triple clamps set on 34 mm offset.
Btw both bikes are springed in the back for a heavy guy (I'm around 112/113 kg in gear as is my friend) and both have the same job done in the forks, same oil, same simmerings, both chassis are greased once per year etc, so they are very very close.
With another SMC springed for a 80kg guy I wouldn't have said that because the bike would have been completely collapsed at the rear with my weight therefore changing the geometry dramatically.
Comparison would have been useless."Offset 34mm (factory setup): Less stable everywhere / a bit more flickable
Offset 32mm (alternative) : More stable everywhere / a bit less flickable
Take a look at the gif, when it switches to the smaller offset (at the top, in the triples) it gives a bigger trail number on the ground --> Imagine a Harley or a sand bike! :D
When it switches to the bigger offset, it gives a smaller trail number on the ground --> Imagine a sportsbike or trakc oriented supermoto.
This is pure theory though, as I've said just before passing from 35 to 34 I didn't notice the lack of flickability or anykind of lazyness in the steering inputs, bike felt more planted everywhere.
So in the end I was faster everywhere but more relaxed at the same time, even in very slow and tight stuff, I live between the Jura and the Alps.
I have never tested 32 mm on a 690 SMC set-up properly for my weight.
PS: I find the explanation a bit confusing both in French and English, maybe they are better in German?
By "fast race courses" they mean "high speeds" like a gp track, not a go kart track.
