Beiträge von Thor_du

  • Zugstufe Nadel dreht raus - kein Endanschlag nach Gabelservice - Duke3


    The fork cap not bottomed on the cartridge rod is a very very very common issue on these forks when it's done by hobbyists on bad shops.
    The procedure is explained in the manual btw, to bottom the fork cap on the cartridge rod first etc.

    How did you remove the springs ? And also how did you put them back on?

  • Zugstufe Nadel dreht raus - kein Endanschlag nach Gabelservice - Duke3

    Sorry my German is rubbish I'll use English.

    As a good starting point:
    The rebound needle and its spring are in the midvalve as they should AND the rebound control rod protrudes about 5 mm (3 to 7mm) out of the cartridge rod and rebounds back to its original position when you push it with your thumb.

    Then, you need to screw by fingers' force only, the spring guide (long black plastic part) onto the rod completely until it bottoms, then you put the spring back on, then you screw the fork cap on the cartridge rod (with the rebound adjuster backed all the way out).

    The spring guide goes up after you've bottomed the fork cap on the cartridge rod this is normal, you put it at the lowest place first so it doesn't bother you but it's not its final position.
    The interior of the fork cap needs to bottom on the cartridge rod first before you bottom the flat part of the fork cap on the spring guide.

    In fewer words, your spring guide isn't low enough and therefore the fork cap isn't bottomed on the rod, (only the spring guide is bottomed on the fork cap) so at some point when clicking the adjuster in, the pusher needle (in the fork cap) can't reach the rebound control rod anymore and this is why there's no end when clicking the adjuster in (closing it).

    Hope it's clear enough.
    If this doesn't clear your problem then maybe you have messed up the position of the brass parts in the fork cap.


  • Starke Motorbremse & Temperaturprobleme - Enduro R (2016)

    You've either broken the oil membrane in the crankshafts's chamber or there's something stuck in it.

    It's a classic on these, typical symptoms. I bet it's broken.
    You can't see oil in gearbox because everything's in the crank's chamber, it's also what's making the huuuge engine braking.
    The pirate has a video on it.

    pasted-from-clipboard.png


    Have you already drained the oil from the engine?
    If yes how much did you drain from the front oil screen? Like an espresso cup or more like a liter?

    EDIT: lowrnge I didn't read the last part, yeah the membrane is gone. 100% sure.



    DSCN0261.jpg

    DSCN0267.jpg

  • Defektes Federbein - Kolbenstange abgerissen

    A guy I know has had the same issue with his 1190 adv.

    It's probably the only road going KTM with a 14 mm shaft, other bikes use 18 mm shaft (not talking about offroad bikes for kids, nor 125/390 DUKE or other Indian/Chinese made KTM, I'm talking about bigger bikes).
    From the partsfinder and the setting lists I've seen it looks like they've gone back to 18 mm shafts on later models, I don't know what went through their mind at that time.

    His shock failed at the same exact point, first leak but he rode for a week or two with the shock leaking and then it broke on a speed bump from what I remember.
    I couldn't find a replacement rod at that time, not even mentionning seals for that 14mm rod.

    Contrary to popular belief the shocks are serviceable.

    Glad you are still alive, you could have killed yourself there, do you know what diameter they use for the replacement rod? Does it look bigger?

    Sorry for the English hijack of the thread.

    EDIT: Looks like they keep all the lower part so very little chance that the rod has been upgraded.

  • Fahrwerks-Unterschiede SMC / SMC-R (2008-2016)

    Zitat von ktm380exc

    The shocks don't have a bladder and are not shorter.

    Wrong on both.

    2008 SMC and Enduro shocks have a bladder instead of an internal floating piston, it's probably the only KTM with a bladder from the factory as far as I know.
    Later SMC, Enduro and Enduro R bikes don't have the same shocks.

    2008 to 2011 SMC have 265 mm front and back for suspension travel.
    2012 to 2017 SMC R have 250 mm at the back for total travel.

    As per the setting lists, the shock are shorter on the 2012 to 2017 models.

    2008 to 2011 ---> 95 mm shock stroke / 400 mm shock length (eye to eye) 265 mm at the wheel
    2012 to 2017 ---> 90 mm shock stroke / 395 mm shock length (eye to eye) / 250 mm at the wheel

    2008 690 SMC

    pasted-from-clipboard.png

    2016 690 SMC R

    pasted-from-clipboard.png


    2008 690 SMC
    Bladder in shock

    pasted-from-clipboard.png

  • Fahrwerks-Unterschiede SMC / SMC-R (2008-2016)

    Zitat von TLandi

    Good Morning.


    This is also about chassis differences. So, about the shock absorber on my '08 SMC. I find it quite bouncy and found my friend's 2012 more comfortable. My question is, since I want to get the bike to stop bouncing. Would it be a solution to simply use a shock absorber from a later model? Service or not, I'm not sure if I'd be happy with the shock absorber. I'm still very spoiled by my aftermarket Bitubo shock absorber on my Suzuki. What do you think?

    Do you mean bouncy / mushy like on a cloud, always going up and down or bouncy like kicking back in your butt?
    If it's mushy then close the rebound adjuster (bottom adjuster), like 4 or 5 clicks is a good beginning.
    If it kicks back then you have other issues, tire pressure can also affect comfort.

    This is a temporary fix, get it serviced, it's a shock with a bladder, not a floating piston, it needs to be serviced more often, not every 17 years.

    Don't put a shorter shock from a 2012 to 2017 SMC R, the bike will push wide at the end of corners and you won't have a very good feeling with the front tire, the overall balance of your bike and the fork length are not made for that shock at all.
    You also have very different seats so this contributes to the comfort btw.

  • Diagnose und Flash-Software gesucht - SMC-R (2024)

    Zitat von Autopartsiap

    Programming and coding... It's about a 2024 SMC R 690... The motorcycle is under warranty and restricted to 30 kW. Now I have a second DME that's also only 30 kW, and I need to get full power out of it. I completely dumped the original DME with a flex flasher. I actually want to get the second DME to run at full power, and then I need some software and hardware for proper diagnostics so I can see service functions and live data.

    You are probably way above what others have done and will do here.
    This is the only other people (that I know of) that have done something similar to what you are trying to achieve.
    ---> https://www.advrider.com/f/thr…erpro-no-tuneecu.1408818/ Maybe contact them.


    PS: Not the same bike, but same ECU.
    ---> https://advrider.com/f/threads…uke-1290-can-bus.1200087/